A collection of techniques and recipes for bistro cooking at home.

Bis•tro [bee-stroh] noun. “A small, modest European-style restaurant or cafe. Home cooking with robust earthy dishes and slow-cooked foods are typical. Classic techniques and classic ingredients make classic flavour.”

Saturday, 6 April 2013

Soups On! Spiced Parsnip


I make soup a lot. It is one of my favourite things. If you have been reading along with some of my other Soups on! Posts (Click here for Garden Vegetable with Caramelized Onions and Creamy Leek and Potato) you’ll have a solid background on how easy they are. And yet, I think there are a lot of misconceptions around the ol’soup pot. Chiefly among these understandings is that soup can’t excite or surprise you. Pfft grow up.  It can be so comforting, so complex in flavour and yet so simple. It can warm you up on days both cold and wet. It can bring a little bit of calm to a hectic day. And it can blow your mind with flavour.

One of the soups I always fall back on is Spiced Parsnip. It’s creamy and smooth with an electrifying taste. Parsnips are not everyone’s vegetable and that's probably because not everyone has tried them! They are crosses between sweet potato and carrot in my mind, slightly sweet and starchy. Delicious.
When you are at the store, select firm parsnips. If it is near the end of the season (they are usually available locally from mid-summer to april-ish), up the spice in the soup to keep it on par. I like mine extra spicy with a little dollop of sour cream in the middle to round it all out. In this case, a little crispy pork cheek was sprinkled around to give it some extra texture.

Ingredients:

1lb parsnips, peeled and cut into 1” chunks (its about 2-3 medium parsnips)
4 tbsp butter
1 onion, diced
1 clove of garlic, minced
2 tsp mild curry powder (see above, might have to play with it)
1200 ml chicken stock
140 ml cream
Toppings are optional (sour cream, bacon, green onion, chives, etc.)

Method:
  • In a good sized soup pot, sauté the onion and parsnips in the butter over a medium high heat. Cook for about 10 minutes.
  • Add the garlic and cook for another minute or two.
  • Add the curry powder and stir constantly so it doesn't burn for about 30 seconds.
  • Add the stock and scrap the bottom so all the spice gets well mixed in. Raise the heat and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the parsnip is very tender. Depending on the size and age of the ol’snip it should take about 20-25 mins.
  • Purée the soup in a blender or using an immersion blender until it is totally smooth. If you want to take it a step farther, pass the soup through a sieve. This will make the texture even smoother.
  • Add the cream, season with salt and pepper and taste. Does it need more spice? Add it now and cook for a minute or two longer.
  • Top however you would like it!

Tuesday, 2 April 2013

Slow Baked Lamb Shanks, The Work is Worth it.


I think it is a real shame that lamb is such a rare thing around these parts. Many years ago we were known for our lamb. In recent years, restrictions have fallen into place and lamb is being left behind by farmers for more easily produced animals. There are still local lamb farmers and it is still extremely flavorful but because of its limited availability lamb has become one of the more expensive proteins offered. Lamb has become a special occasion item in my kitchen. Something to be savoured as a treat and believe me this meal was a real treat.

I stuffed and cooked the lamb wrapped in foil with vegetables and liquid so it would stay moist and be packed with flavor. Pairing it with couscous is not something I have done a lot of and it’s not a common side dish in this country but its ability to absorb and take on flavors made it a natural choice. Bringing the whole dish together was a garlic and herb cream sauce that I really enjoyed. It was rich and sumptuous and really added something to the whole plate.

Making a special meal like this is all about thinking it through. You want it to be cohesive. The simplest way to do this is make sure that each component uses the same base flavors, i.e. use lamb and vegetable trimmings from the baked shank to flavor the couscous and use the same herbs and garlic component in the stuffing to make a good sauce. I drew the inspiration for this meal from many places (a little Jamie Oliver and a little Julia Child and a little from my own head) and I took my time. This is a definite Sunday night, slow cooked meal and I urge you to give it a try. It may take a while to prepare and do right but it is worth it!

Ingredients:

Baked Lamb:

2 lamb shanks (go local and go big), trimmed about an 1½“ down and trimmings reserved
6 garlic cloves, peeled (mince 2 and leave 4 whole)
3 tbsp of butter
3-4 sprigs thyme, picked
3 carrots, peeled and sliced
1 small onion, peeled and sliced
1 large leek, washed, dark green tops removed and reserved and light white and green parts sliced
1 wineglass of white wine

Couscous

Trimmings from the lamb and veggies (washed greens from the leek, a half onion, a half carrot, one garlic clove)
1 ½ cups couscous
1 ¾ cups chicken stock
2 Thyme sprigs, picked







Quick Garlic Sauce

1 head of Garlic
¾ cup milk
1 sprig thyme, picked
1 ½ Tbsp white rice
1 cup chicken stock

Method:

For the Lamb:
  • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
  • In a small bowl mix the minced garlic cloves, butter, 90% of the thyme and some salt and pepper together until thoroughly combined.
  • Turn the lamb shank over so the fat end faces you. Make a small incision with a sharp knife just beside the bone and then use your fingers to widen into a little pocket. Divide the butter between the two shanks and stuff tightly. Use your hands to massage the rest of the shanks with a little extra butter. Season the whole shank with salt and pepper.
  • Toss the leek, onion, whole garlic and carrot with some salt and pepper, a dab of olive oil and the rest of the picked thyme.
  • For the parcels, rip two large sheets of parchment paper and tin foil. Parchment on top and the vegetables divided between the two packages. The lamb sits on top of the veggies.
  • Because there is a double layer with the parchment and foil, the lamb will be moisture sealed. As you gather the foil tightly up around the shank, divide the cup of wine between the two to add a little extra moisture in. Yay flavor building! If the foil won’t stay tight, tie with a little kitchen twine.
  • Put both parcels onto a tray and slide into the preheated oven. The lamb will take about 2 ½ to 3 hours depending on the size of the shank. I had some big shanks so mine took about 3 hours. Make sure you allow the lamb to rest in the packages for about 10 minutes or more when it is done.

For the Couscous:
  • In a large pot, pour a little olive oil and fry the trimmings from the lamb over medium high until nice and golden.
  • Add in the vegetables and fry until a little caramelized.
  • Pour out as much oil from the pan as you can and then add the thyme.
  • Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil.
  • Shut off the heat and let the flavors infuse.
  • When you are almost ready to serve, drain the cooked lamb and veggies from the stock into a new pot and bring to the boil. Pour in the couscous and take off the heat. Cover with a lid and let sit for about 10 mins. Fluff with a fork and you are good to go.

For the garlic sauce:
  • Take the whole clove of garlic, slice the top off so you can see the tops of the little cloves. Sprinkle with olive oil and some salt and pepper and wrap in two sheets of foil. Throw it into the oven with the lamb for about 1 hour.
  • When the hour is up check the garlic. It will be soft and sweet and light brown. Squeeze out all of the cloves into a small sauce pot and cover with the milk, thyme and a little salt and pepper. Bring to a light simmer and add the rice. Cook at barely a simmer for about 30 mins. Add in a little more milk if you think it is reducing too much.
  • Add in the stock and simmer for 10 mins longer. Puree with whole mix. The rice will thicken the sauce a bit but it will still be fairly runny. Keep warm but off the heat.

To bring it all together:
  • Serve the lamb on a bed of the delicious and flavorful couscous with some of the braised vegetables from the lamb package. Drizzle your garlic sauce all around and pour yourself a large glass of a sweet, light wine. Eat.