A collection of techniques and recipes for bistro cooking at home.

Bis•tro [bee-stroh] noun. “A small, modest European-style restaurant or cafe. Home cooking with robust earthy dishes and slow-cooked foods are typical. Classic techniques and classic ingredients make classic flavour.”

Thursday, 18 October 2012

A Classic Pan Braise: Porc Avec Sauce Moutarde

Pork and mustard are best friends. A good pork sandwich with a smear of strong whole grain or a roast ham with a sweet, honey mustard glaze are both classic examples. In the bistro, mustards were a common accompaniment to different cured meats and so were readily available for other uses. In this recipe it is slowly braised with pork. The simmer of the sauce mellows the mustard and a touch of cream at the very end makes it very smooth. There are many different varieties of mustard, from dry seeds, sour whole grain, acidic yellow and the one used in this recipe: Dijon. Made using wine, the deep flavor of the mustard works well as a sauce base.

The stove top braise is a classic technique in the French bistro and works well with all types of tougher proteins. Some examples:
  • An older chicken sautéed and then braised in wine with vegetables is a coq au vin.
  • Meat sautéed and then braised in red wine and stock with vegetables is a beef bourguignon.

They all are cooked the same way: brown the meat in oil or butter and then remove from the pan, cook any vegetables you would like to include in the leftover oil, deglaze with a liquid and add the meat back to the pan, simmer until tender. This recipe is perhaps the simplest of all as the vegetables are cooked separately. This also allows nothing to come between the pork and the mustard sauce, which means great flavor.

I chose to serve the braised pork with some sautéed carrots, brussel sprout leaves and roasted potatoes. These are all seasonal but could be swapped out for a light salad, smooth mashed potatoes or a crunchy apple and cabbage slaw (apple and pork and mustard, are an amazing flavor combo). I love letting the leftover pork sit in the mustard sauce overnight in the fridge. Sliced thin the next day on some good bread with a little cheese broiled on top, delicious!


Ingredients for Pork with Mustard Sauce:

2 pork blade steaks, cut in half, bone removed (a fatty cut works better, lean pork chops might go tough during the braise)
2 ½ Tbsp butter
2 ½ Tbsp Dijon mustard, I used chardonnay mustard
2/3 cup water
2 Tbsp cream



Method:
  • Marinate pork in a splash of wine, splash of oil, pinch of pepper and salt. Throw some herbs in if you're feeling particularly bold.
  • Melt butter on medium high in a pan large enough to hold all the pork in a single layer. Brown the pork in the butter, about 2 min each side.
  • Thoroughly stir the mustard into the water and add to the pan with the browned pork.
  • Bring the pan to the boil, cover and cook at a low simmer for 15-20 mins flipping the pork once or twice to make sure the sauce evenly coats the pieces.
  • Remove the pork from the pan, set aside and bring the sauce to a rolling boil. Reduce by half, about 7 mins. It should coat the back of a spoon. Stir often so the sauce doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan.
  • Stir the cream into the pan juices, season with salt and pepper and spoon over the pork.


Ingredients for Potato, Carrot and Brussel Sprout Sauté:

5 or 6 new potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1” chunks
Small piece of Pancetta or Bacon, diced small
1 clove garlic, minced
3 small carrots, diced
Wineglass of white wine
6 or 7 brussel sprouts, rinsed, cored removed and leaves stripped
Squirt of lemon juice



Method:

  • Place potatoes in cold salted water and bring to a rolling boil until tender. Drain; toss with a little bit of butter and leave to roast in a 350⁰ oven until the other vegetables are done. Every once in a while toss to make sure they are nice and golden.
  • While the pork is cooking, preheat a pan over medium high with a splash of oil. Sauté the pancetta and garlic for a minute or two.
  • Toss in the carrots, fry for another min or two, deglaze with wine and cover. Cook until carrots are tender.
  • Remove the lid and add the brussel sprout leaves, stirring to cook about 4 mins.
  • Toss in the potatoes, add a splash of lemon juice, season with salt and pepper, remove from the heat and cover until pork is done.

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