A collection of techniques and recipes for bistro cooking at home.

Bis•tro [bee-stroh] noun. “A small, modest European-style restaurant or cafe. Home cooking with robust earthy dishes and slow-cooked foods are typical. Classic techniques and classic ingredients make classic flavour.”

Monday, 15 October 2012

It Was My Sister's Fault I Made These and Now Suffer an Addiction: Profiteroles also known as Cream Puffs


It was Friday afternoon when I received a call from my sister. She was having a house party on Sunday and wanted to make cream puffs. I immediately was drawn back into my childhood: My mom making light, fluffy cream puffs bursting with cream and drizzled with chocolate. They would come out for special occasions and be devoured as soon as possible. I was drooling. But then my sister explained the problem: she was trying to use my mom’s recipe.

My mother is a wonderful cook and baker but her recipes are instinctual and sometimes difficult to explain. What is a palmful? How does that measure in cups? Why did you add that like that? How do you know that pinch you put in was a tablespoon? I had been down that road before. I knew that sometimes walking in mom’s culinary footsteps is a daunting task. I went home and scoured my books for recipes and called my sister back. She said she was on the right track; she had the right ingredients she just needed to mix them another way. Problem solved. (They turned out beautiful and were a hit a few days later at the party.) As soon as the phone call ended though, I knew I was in trouble. I could taste them. I could imagine sneaking chocolate off the top and eating myself sick on cream puffs and I knew I had to make them. NOW.

This recipe is adapted from a couple different sources but takes most of its inspiration from the recipe of Thomas Keller, famed chef and owner of the French laundry, Bouchon and many others. Cream Puffs as they are known in this part of the world are actually the French delicacy, Profiteroles made from Pate du Choux or Choux pastry. They feature prominently in different cakes and desserts but made simply like this and filled with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, they are a classic everyone needs to experience.

Ingredients:

1 cup water
5 ½ Tbsp butter
1 ½ Tbsp sugar
Pinch of salt
1 cup white flour, sieved
4 eggs (have an extra around just in case you need it as it describes in the method), beaten lightly in four separate bowls

Method:
  • Preheat oven to 450⁰ and prepare two baking sheets. Optimally you should use a non stick mat or baking parchment but you can use tinfoil like I did in a pinch. Also set yourself out a large bowl and wooden spoon.
  • In a sauce pan over medium high, combine butter, sugar and salt until the butter melts and then add in the water. Bring to a simmer.
  • Turn the pan down a little bit and add in the flour. Stir with a wooden spoon until you smell a nutty aroma and it pulls away from the sides of the pan. It might take a few minutes.
  • Take off the heat and remove the dough into the bowl you set aside earlier. Stir for a few seconds with your spoon to release some of the heat. This is important as you are about to add eggs. You don’t want scrambled egg dough.
  • One at a time and mixing thoroughly between each, add in the eggs. Check the consistency: is it slowly sliding off the spoon or is it hanging out all clumpy? If it seems dry, add in that spare egg I told you to have around.
  • When you are done mixing, put the dough into a piping bag with a plain 1” tip on it. Pipe the dough onto the baking sheets, with lots of room around each one, in a shape just smaller than a golf ball. Dip your finger into some water and smooth out their tops so the little nubs left by the piping bag don’t burn.
  • Bake in the oven for 10 minutes, turn the pan, lower the oven to 350⁰ and bake for 15 more.
  • Remove from the pan after a few minutes and place on a cooling rack. When they are completely cool and you want to serve them/eat them all yourself, you can do one of two things: poke a hole and inject them with whipping cream or slice them in half horizontally and stuff them with cream either whipped or iced. Drizzle with chocolate. That’s important.


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