A collection of techniques and recipes for bistro cooking at home.

Bis•tro [bee-stroh] noun. “A small, modest European-style restaurant or cafe. Home cooking with robust earthy dishes and slow-cooked foods are typical. Classic techniques and classic ingredients make classic flavour.”

Saturday, 28 April 2012

Big Flavor in a Small Package


Good things come in packages, big or small. In the culinary world there are many ways to wrap up tasty things but I’m partial to the crepe. Essentially a very thin pancake, most North Americans think of crepes as sweet items usually in the form of Crepe Suzette, an orange flavored (sometimes flambéed) dessert style item. That’s what I thought too. We were all on the same page. One day however I was up in the Comox Valley and got to enjoy an amazing savory crepe at the farmer’s market. The chef preparing them cooked it on a special crepe machine and placed spinach, bacon, a smoked local cheese and a fried egg inside. Damn was it good.

This savory crepe recipe was one I got from her and made some changes to it, incorporating other crepe advice from other cookbooks. The best part about this recipe is that you make the crepes ahead and refrigerate them. This lets you work on the perfect filling, warm the crepes slightly in the oven and then roll them and serve them in your own time. I like when I am not rushed and I can get the presentation and the flavor perfect.

Shoot for big flavors with this recipe and showcase something special so that when it gets sliced into the eater is surprised. Following the crepe recipe is what I filled it mine with: fried mushrooms, caramelized onions and roasted chicken in a port cream sauce.

Savory Crepes

1 ½ cup flour
4 eggs
1 cup milk mixed with ½ cup whipping cream or 1 ½ cups half and half
4 Tbsp melted butter
2-3 Tbsp soft herbs, minced (tarragon, chives, parsley)
Salt and Pepper

Method:
  • Whisk eggs and dairy together vigorously until very smooth.
  • In phases, whisk wet ingredients into flour until smooth.
  • Refrigerate at least 30 minutes, up to 2 hours.
  • Remove from the fridge, mix lightly and then strain through a sieve.
  • Stir in the butter and herbs.
  • Prepare the largest flat bottom frying pan you have over medium-low heat. I strongly recommend a quick spray of oil or a wipe down with some canola. Set yourself up with the bowl of batter right beside the stove top and a plate beside you with 6 sheets of wax paper.
  • Pick up the pan and tilt slightly, at the same time pour in around a ½ cup of batter with your other hand, rotating the hot pan in mid air so the batter spreads quickly around the bottom. This is the hardest maneuver to master and also the most enjoyable.
  • Put the hand back down on the heat once the bottom is fully covered. If you put too much batter in the pan dump some out. If too little pour some in your shy spots.
  • The crepe will change color a bit for about a minute. Now’s the time to check it with a spatula or narrow flipper. It will have set enough that you should be able to flip it easily.
  • Cook a minute longer and put it on the sheet.
  • Start the whole process again. Wait until you want to put another crepe on top before covering the first with the wax paper so it doesn’t sweat!

Chicken, Mushroom and Port Cream Crepe Filling

1 onion, finely sliced
1 ½ cup sliced mushrooms
Couple of handfuls of leftover Roasted Chicken
Sprig of rosemary, minced
3 Tbsp Port
2 Tbsp heavy cream
Salt, Pepper and Butter

Method:
  • Sauté the onions in butter over medium until just starting to brown.
  • Add the mushrooms and cook over medium until soft and brown and onions have begun to caramelize.
  • Add in the chicken and herbs. Stir well and turn up the heat to medium high.
  • When the pan comes up in temperature, deglaze with the port.
  • Wait for the port to reduce a bit and add in the cream.
  • Season well and reduce the sauce for a little while until the whole pan has reached a thick, gooey consistency. Set aside and keep warm until you are ready to stuff your crepes.


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