A collection of techniques and recipes for bistro cooking at home.

Bis•tro [bee-stroh] noun. “A small, modest European-style restaurant or cafe. Home cooking with robust earthy dishes and slow-cooked foods are typical. Classic techniques and classic ingredients make classic flavour.”

Friday, 27 April 2012

The Roast I Love Most




 There is nothing better than a good roast. They exist in almost all food cultures in one way or another. I grew up with roasts on Sunday nights, Yorkshire puddings and good gravy. In the bistro context roasts are good multi-purpose items:  A succulent slow roasted meat dinner can provide unbelievable sandwich fixings for the following day, meats are usually cheaper if bought in bulk and gravy and meat bones are great for stock bases and soups. When roasting at home, I always use the same method regardless of pork or beef roast, shoulder or rump or whatever I find:
  • Use a vegetable base – the common one would be a carrot, an onion and a rib or two of celery chopped rough. This lifts the roast up out of the pan so heat can penetrate evenly and also provides a place for juices to drip during the roasting process and with these juices you can make the base for many a gravy or sauce.
  • Less is more when it comes to herbs, oils and garlic – definitely use them but use them in moderation, a coating of oil and a bit in the bottom with the veg. A sprinkling of herbs that are a good combo with what type of meat you are cooking is all you need. Unless you have some sort of exotically spiced meal in mind, don’t worry about it on the meat. Stick to the classics: salt and pepper, a bit of oil, some herbs and a little garlic.
  • Roast low, rest long – I never roast meats at high temps because frankly it doesn’t work. You want it to brown nicely on the inside and cook evenly. There are all sorts of minutes per pound rules of thumb but to get it right, use a thermometer. Cook it around 350⁰ until it is medium rare then remove it from the oven and tent it tightly with foil so it rests. If it browns too much in the oven, tent it in the oven so the foil disperses the heat.    
One way that I get good roasts is I buy meat in large uncut quantities. I buy full
pork tenderloins, beef strip loins or recently, pork legs. The meat is much cheaper and provides many different cuts in addition to the good roasting portion. After cutting this leg apart I was able to get ham steaks, hocks and good ham roasts.


French Country-Style Ham Roast

41b Ham Roast, trimmed of fat and cartilage 
¼ cup Salt
1 Tbsp Sugar
2 Tbsp Honey
1 Tbsp whole grain mustard
4 sprigs Rosemary
¼ cup strong full flavored, Red Wine or Port or Sherry
1 tsp Black pepper
3 cups Water
1 medium Onion, chopped
1 Carrot, chopped
1 large bulb Garlic, chopped

Method:
  • Place all of the ingredients except for the vegetables in a bowl. Refrigerate for 3 hours, turning frequently. This will not cure the meat as a ham but it will brine it slightly making it nice and moist.
  • Preheat the oven to 450⁰, place the vegetables in the bottom of a roast pan and put the ham on top. Pour in the liquid, it should cover the pan to about halfway up, add more water if necessary. The excess water will make a moist heat in the oven.
  • Using a thermometer roast the meat to medium rare and rest the meat with the juices and vegetables from the pan in a bowl for 2 hours uncovered.
  • Throw away the liquid and veg and slice thin. Delicious with strong mustard and pickles.




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